To celebrate the 40th anniversary of her famous Wrap dress, Diane von Furstenberg named her collection Bohemian Wrapsody, with a runway full of more beautiful prints than ever before. The accompanying beauty look by James Kaliardos was soft, with touches of pink highlighting eyes and cheeks, while Orlando Pita created a romantic bun with some tendrils loosely escaping.
“OLD school, new school, chic with street… sick to slick” read the show notes at this afternoon’s DKNY show. Entitled New York Mash Up, Donna Karan sent out a wardrobe of urban staples that many a hipster will want to wear right now, take the opening quilted black parka with furry hood, or any one of those fuzzy humbug-striped shearlings for starters.
Donna Karan is a woman who can tap into youth culture with ease, and that’s something that extends to all facets – from a status “it” sweatshirt emblazoned with a giant “D” or with sleeves streaming in sequin shards, to inviting Rita Ora to sit front row, or street-casting a show. Here, nightlife hostesses, professional skateboarders, biologists, students and artists mixed with the roll call of models – she knows what buttons to push, and crucially it never looks forced.
In addition to plenty of black (according to Karan, New Yorkers can never get enough), her palette felt collegiate with colour combinations of navy and Bordeaux and elsewhere, yellow and grey – but refreshingly rebellious and not dealt in a preppy way. A flirty, neon lace minidress was a surprise sighting in the mix, but like she said, this was a mash-up, reasoning, “There’s nothing better to wear to light up the city.” Few will argue with that.
Once her cool kids are done having fun with the more youth-centric elements of this collection, they can graduate to that winning three-piece trouser suit in grey marl complete with mannish overcoat, should of course, they ever feel the need to feel grow up.